Spirit Walker’s Russell Fjord expedition is a trip back in time. Far from cruise ships and other paddlers, this is remote wilderness paddling at its finest. Far from the noise of civilization, you’ll experience a thrilling view of the Hubbard Glacier, the largest sea-level glacier in North America. It’s an impressive wall of ice that thunders each time two-ton blocks of ice break off and smash into the waters of the fjord.
Deep in the Russell Fjord wilderness area of the Tongass National Forest, our trip takes you to a steep-walled inlet that seems locked in a previous ice age. We’ll leave behind the lush stands of Sitka spruce in Yakutat, and replace it with an ecosystem defined by glaciation. As recently as 1986, the Hubbard actually sealed off the entrance to this fjord and created a lake for four months. We’ll paddle these narrow, deep waters where you’re likely to spot harbor seals hauled out on floating icebergs.
After short sea-plane ride from Yakutat, you’ll be transported to this solitary place few others have experienced. The setting is framed by the jagged, snow-locked peaks of the St. Elias Range, which tower 18,000 above sea level. From these mountains, never-ending snow and ice accumulate to form massive glaciers, including the Hubbard, which at its terminus is 5 miles wide and 300 feet high.
We begin our journey in a side-arm in the fjord, paddling along a rocky shoreline where hardy pioneer plants such as dryas, fireweed, and willow attempt to colonize this rapidly changing landscape. Along milky glacial outwash streams, young forests of alder and cottonwood begin to stake out a foothold.
Over the course of several days, you’ll paddle amid porpoise and seals toward immense blue face of the Hubbard Glacier. As gulls cry overhead, you’ll hear the bubbling sound of melting icebergs and the occasional crash of ice calving off the towering face of the glacier. Then silence reigns again, punctuated by voice of the glacier creeping forward in groans and creaks. It’s an awe-inspiring experience that engages all the senses.
While camped on shore, you’re free to explore footpaths in this fascinating ice-carved landscape. Pay close attention and you might spot mountain goats scampering on sheer rock faces or a brown bear overturning boulders on the shore in search of barnacles. Wildflowers proliferate, and offer an opportunity to test your photography skills.
Though this is an extended wilderness expedition, no exceptional kayaking skills are required; just bring along a keen sense of adventure, willingness to camp out in a rugged wilderness setting for up to a week, and the stamina to paddle for multiple hours each day. You’ll be rewarded with one of the premier wilderness experiences in the world.